November 25, 2011 § Leave a comment
Pretty much all the pieces came together for this one. I’ll let the menu speak for itself.
fairytale eggplant, cotija, guajillo chile
braised radish salad
xuong nuong, nuoc cham, purple radish sprouts and greens, chocolate mint
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pan roasted striper
bacon-leek dashi, turnip, maitake, mibuna
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poached pear crêpes
lemon balm syrup, ronnybrook butter pecan ice-cream
November 25, 2011 § 1 Comment
I try to plan ahead for these suppers so those components that need several weeks of prep time are taken care of when the time comes. This is why for the past several weeks a cured pig cheek has been hanging from the ceiling fan in my bedroom because some time in December I will surely want guanciale on the menu.
For this meal I decided on choucroute garni at the last minute after seeing the pork ribs and wurst at the flying pig stand at usq. greenmarket. so i made do with a quick pickling trick: added distilled vinegar to the brine, pouring it over the red cabbage immediately after dissolving salt and steeping in caraway, while still hot. The same bacterial cultures don’t get a chance to ferment at this temperature and in so short a time, but you end up with something passable, with its own (slightly lesser) merits.
roasted bone marrow
garlic butter, house rye points, gremolata
acorn squash soup
pumpkin seed oil, toasted pepitas, gruyere
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bratwurst & mustard, Alsatian braised pork ribs, oyster mushroom spaetzle
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mutsu & walnut galette
vanilla mascarpone, apple rye compote
November 13, 2011 § Leave a comment
for the supper club debut i had to roast chicken, because you can’t go anywhere in this world without first being able to do that. i dug up this essential pepin clip from his endless archive to help out with the deboning. must find a not-ridiculous way to serve up the chicken wing lollipops. or maybe chicken wing lollipops are always ridiculous.
other lessons learned: za’atar is a delicious crepe seasoning; using a hot cast iron pan as a grill substitute is not so effective with haloumi; never assume that your guests will remain fully clothed if their bellies fill. a memorable first outing.
za’atar, black pepper
cukes 3 ways, grilled haloumi, heirloom tomatoes
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charred escarole, gaeta olive, preserved lemon broth
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ginger meringue, salted sage caramel
November 10, 2011 § Leave a comment
This was my favorite birthday present. A friend of mine snuck past French customs to smuggle this butter back from Paris. I’m indebted to him forever. This is truly the holy stuff, disturbingly yellow, flecked with fleur de sel, and a secret I only discovered the week before I left Paris. I wouldn’t be surprised if the cows are massaged with Calvados up in Brittany. Those guys live the good life. Still trying to decide what to do with the smoked salt butter – caramels perhaps ?